So it’s fair to say that Spring is well and truly underway and Summer is just peering around the corner. Everything is coming back to life, the birds and dawn chorus are in full swing, the frogs and toads are producing spawn and future carp food in the shape of tadpoles…. and this is when short black zigs come in to their own which I’ll cover in a later blog.

My unhooking mat and net are covered in tench slime and the gate at Grey Mist has been left open for the first time I’ve seen this year, which also means a lot of anglers have woken up too!

The only thing that hasn’t woken up for me are the carp, only banking tench through out the whole of March.
With limited time on the bank throughout March with it being a busy month in work and family commitments I’ve tried to make the most of my short time on the bank fishing my midweek sessions in between work.

As I’m sure you’ve all heard of the ‘going rig’ at the moment…  the Ronnie Rig or spinner rig. I’ve read and seen how successful it is so I was very eager to give it a go to see what I’ve been missing out on.
I couldn’t wait to make this rig and to see how it looks first hand and how it sits and sinks in water and to see how easy it is to construct…. very easy I found in fact!
Whilst in the shop selecting the components of this rig I had noticed how popular it actually was, with the always heavily stocked shelves and rails missing a few packets of hook swivels and hook beads due to its high demand at present.

Here’s my step by step guide of how to make (not a lot of tieing involved) this rig if you don’t already know which I very much doubt.

To make this rig you will need
-curve shank hooks
-hook beads
-hook swivels
-shrink tube
-quick change links with swivels
-boom section/link section
-tungsten putty
-pop up of your choice

1 – get your hook and thread on the length of shrink tube, just enough to cover the barrel of the swivel and bottom half of the hook shank and eye. Slip the hook into the quick link swivel with the hook point facing away from the opening of the link.

2 – heat the shrink tube over the steam of the kettle or in boiling water to sit tidy on the barrel and hook eye and to keep the hook and swivel straight. Don’t burn your fingers!

3 – thread on your hook swivel and hook bead. Leave the hook bead opposite the point of the hook to maximise the hooking potential keeping the point aggressively facing down.

4 – tie on your choice of pop up to the hook swivel with bait floss.

Depending on how stiff a boom section you require, tie a knot your comfortable with to the ring of the quick swivel and add small lumps of putty along the boom to help kick the rig out away from the lead set up.
I use a standard lead clip system with a leadcore leader with this rig but it can also be fished helicopter style.

This rig has been working well for me over my short sessions, although I’ve only caught tench it shows that it’s working and sitting nicely and naturally over my baited areas.

In honest opinion I do prefer to use stiff hinged rigs as they’re a bit more invisible and blend in better on the lake bed and contain less components/metal to construct.
Both though are dangerous in the right place at the right time and our quarry find it very hard to rid the rig once sucked up making them vital for the most wary of carp.


Tight Lines